Were Andrew Irvine and George Mallory the First to Reach Everest’s Summit?

In 1924, British mountaineers George Mallory and Andrew “Sandy” Irvine set out in their attempt to be the first climbers ever to reach the summit of Mount Everest. On June 8th, they were last spotted by teammate Noel Odell around 800 feet from the peak before clouds obscured them. Mallory and Irvine never returned to camp and their fate has become one of history’s greatest unsolved mysteries.

Irving and Mallory faced many challenges. Mallory was an experienced climber but he had never attempted a summit as high as Everest. Irving was young and fit, but he lacked experience. Given this was the early days of Everest expeditions, the routes were very much trial and error, and the equipment available at the time primitive compared to the gear modern mountaineers have access to.

For 75 years, it was unknown whether the pair had actually reached the top before perishing on the descent. The discovery of Mallory’s body in 1999 renewed hopes of finding evidence on his person. However, the Vest Pocket Kodak camera that may have contained proof was never recovered. Irvine’s remains went undiscovered for nearly a century, leaving the summit question unsettled.

Irvine’s Remains Finally Found

In September 2024, a National Geographic team led by Jimmy Chin discovered a boot protruding from ice on the slopes. Inside was a foot and sock labeled “A.C. Irvine.” This was the first hard evidence of Irvine’s fate and location. His great-niece suspects the remains likely fell or were swept down the mountain and trapped in the moving glacier.

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While the 1924 camera remains missing, its potential discovery could still provide insight into Mallory and Irvine’s climb. Chin believes more artifacts may emerge nearby, as the team also found a bottle from a 1933 expedition in the same glacier. Though Irvine’s role in the summit attempt has remained ambiguous, this find finally gives some closure to his family after generations of mystery.

Did They Summit? Clues and Speculation

While Mallory was an experienced mountaineer, Irvine was a novice, making their push to the top ambitious and risky. Some experts believe the severe drop in barometric pressure preceding their disappearance essentially increased the mountain’s altitude and triggered perilous conditions.

Odell’s sighting proves they climbed improbably high. However, there are doubts they actually reached the top. Mallory’s ice axe wasn’t found near his body, suggesting they hadn’t begun descending. A photo of his wife he intended to leave on the summit also wasn’t there. While inconclusive, these clues suggest Mallory and Irvine ultimately fell short of conquering Everest that fateful day.

Their ill-fated attempt cemented the pair’s legacy as mountaineering pioneers. Irvine and Mallory inspired future generations of Everest climbers by proving the summit was within reach. Though debate continues, the balance of evidence implies they came painfully close to glory, but likely perished just shy of their goal in a sad coda to their courageous effort. Their story remains one of adventure’s most stirring and unforgettable sagas.